Tuesday, April 20, 2021

Devil's Thumb Hike. Far North Queensland


Notes by Julian P.      2016

Quick summary:

7 hours return.  plus 1 hour or so break

A.   Start approx sea level. at parking 300m past Karnak playhouse.
3 hours to Fern patch at 950 m altitude.   (2 hrs if you are very athletic).
Take a break here.

B. 1hr 20 min  North across ridge to thumb: 1100m altitude.
Total 4.5 hours.  

Return:
50 min of fast walking back to fern path.
1hr40 hours down approx   
Total  2hr40 from thumb. 

—————————————————————————————-
Grand total:  about 7 hours.  plus about 1 hr breaks and lunch = 8 hr

eg leave at 7am, add 8 hrs =  1500hrs back at car.  

Bring 2-3 litres of water per person. You will drink a lot on the steep climb to the ridge.  Start early to avoid heat on way up and to have plenty of time at the top to have lunch etc.  

Detailed description:
Getting to Parking at base of climb:

A series of small country roads: 
Turnoff left just after Murano’s service station (10 min North of Mossman) . On the road that goes from Mossman to the Daintree Ferry.   

After passing the primary school, 
Follow signs to "High Falls Farm" (restaurant) along Whyanbeel rd. 

After small bridge,  do not go left to Falls restaurant, but take next left to Karnak Playhouse.

Go past the old playhouse, up the road 300m.   You will come to gates to 2 properties.  Park in the small parking area on the right. 

Follow the dirt road on the right to gate, follow the signs on the gate to bypass the property. This leads to a creek.

Go downstream 100m . Cross the creek where you can see an obvious track the other side.

From here on, the track is maintained and obvious.  There is a National Park sign at the bottom of the track. 



Parking (sea-level approx)  to Fern patch (950 m altitude) :

3 hours to the open area (visible on the way in from the road, above the series of waterfalls).  This is called the “coral fern patch”,  as it has a large area of “coral” fern bushes.  There is a trench cut through them, as well  as an aluminium stairway on a steep bit.

at about 270m altitude (less than 1 hour approx), you will come to a track to the left. DO NOT take this - this goes to a waterfall. 


Fern Patch to thumb

1.5 hours to the thumb.

Follow the thin track through the fern, up to a forest of thin trees.

Follow the narrow track, with orange tape.  Avoid returning when dark, as one can easily get lost if it wasn't for the tape.
At one stage, the track goes between 2 large boulders. You will need to scramble up between them using tree roots etc.  

When you arrive at the thumb, Go behind it to a small flat area.  Use the tree growing out to clamber up the short distance, then you are on top of the thumb - great 360 degree views.  


General Notes:

Do not do if it has rained heavily the day before - the steep track will be very slippery. 
Look at the day’s weather report before leaving - you will need a fine day.  Rain will make the descent dangerous and unpleasant.
——————————————————-
Bring: a light jacket in case of drizzle or wind - it’s up to 5 degrees cololer up there. Hypothermia is possible in strong rain.
Snacks,  a packed lunch, small 1st aid kit for cuts etc. 
1 torch in case of rain.

2-3 Litres of water per person.  you will consume about 1L on the ascent. 
A phone for emergencies. There is good reception with Telstra, maybe other carriers at the coral fern patch onwards.  

Bring trekking poles if you have them for the descent. Otherwise improvise with a branch.  
—————————————————

Do not leave late, as you may get lost in the dark on the way back on narrow tracks with some fake sidetracks.



see the entry with photos on my personal blog:

click Here



Saturday, October 1, 2016

East Coast Guide


General tips


Get maps or a Travel atlas eg HEMA with all of Australia.  Shows National parks etc.  
Worth getting the large version (more expensive) as it is easier to see details.

The Hema maps show official free camps: eg 24 hour or 48 hr stay.  These have toilets and a cold shower outside.
They are widely used by “grey nomads” and backpackers.  Better than rest areas on the highway: quieter and usely near a river or some feature.
Not always easy to find. 
There is also an App you can download on your phone which has free camps.

You can also camp in National Parks – $5 approx per person per night.
You will need to go online – eg google “parksQ” for queensland – and create AN Account with your vehicle rego etc.
After this,  go online,  select the national park, then the campsite,  etc
And pay by credit card.  Download the pdf receipt and take note of the reservation number.  Write this down on a piece of paper and put it in your windscreen.

Camping in Nat parks is good – often next to a lake or River. Wake up with birds, see Goannas etc.  And go on the walks on offer.   Light a fire in some – especially NSW.   Carry firelighters and some small wood.


Do not camp in busy places like near Noosa beach where you may be fined by the council. Head for national parks nearby or isolated roads.
==============

Mask and snorkel – buy one and use Whitsundays, magnetic island etc. 


==================

North of cairns, QLD


 Can swim in sea.  No stingers may-oct
Don’t swim near creek entrances. Crocs breed there and hang around creeks.  They don’t go into surf areas, generally unless travelling between creeks.
beaches will often have croc signs.  Look to see if there is a  creek with mangroves . if it is less than 500m away or so, dont swim.   

Easy  scenic drive from Cairns 1.5 hrs approx:


Port douglas 5 star resorts – Sheraton mirage etc. can have a drink in the bars of most. Eg ramada resort .or QT resort.
Very romantic sunsets from the park near the church, end of Macrosan st. 520 pm onwards.













Mosman gorge – small fee to enter . Good swimming in river.
Good 3km loop walk (easy)  with huge tropical trees – worthwhile



















Free camp: from Mossman head  North 15 min towards Wonga beach.  After road meets sea, there is a parking with a jetty.  I camp here often. No toilet2

North of this, 
Can Get water taxi to Snapper island .
(nat park camping).  Small island.  Walk to north side,  swim out approx 80m  and there is a large coral bommy.     Good coral on calm days.


Cape tribulation

strong hippy vibe... 40 minutes north of Mossman, catch ferry with vehicle across river.  Daintree Jungle in Mossman gorge and cape trib is the oldest in the world... older than the amazon.
worth doing the hikes up to 1000m ... steep, bring a lot of water.. 


Between Cairns and Townsville


– lots of national parks.  Get map to see them. 
Highly recommend small nat  park 1hr north of Townsville- 
Jourama falls
 Get dropped off at sign “jourama falls”  then walk 5km or so on dirt road.  To campsite in forest.

No phone reception .  good campsites, river to swim in.
Waterfalls and beautiful rock pools, lizards, butterflies.
Very quiet. 

After this,  at ingham if you have desire , you can go to Wallaman falls- Niagara-like waterfalls .  a bit of a drive west – but can hitch with campers.

Not to be missed: Mission beach
Very nice beach, jungle walks
Get ferry to Dunk island,  camp nat park, snorkel. 

If keen, get ferry to Hinchinbrook island,  walk south for 5 + days (campsites need booking) and get picked up south of island. 

Josephine falls nice.

Tully gorge v. nice.   Campsite nat park right on river.  Swim, jungle walks.
Work in bananas all year round. 






Magnetic Island

Very laid back,  much better than Townsville. 30$ return on ferry (without car). Eg leave car at ferry terminal for 7$ per day. Worth camping at horshoe bay to see sunset and soak in the atmosphere.  Good camp next to yha. Also wood bungalows at yha.  Parrots come into grounds afternoon and you can feed them. 
Worth reserving yha horseshoe bay . 2 min walk to beach.  


 Recommend 2-3 days.

  Then Can take bus 20 min to horseshoe bay – great sunsets .  Or  can walk to acadia bay , then take inland hike track up hill to ww2 bunkers (good views, history)  then down to Florence bay. Get walk map at info also snorkeling guide free.  Have mask and snorkel for bays – good coral on left or right of all bays. 
Can wild camp Florence bay (best bay) and snorkel on left.  Toilets
Then walk to balding bay etc.   can camp on these bays.   Also can do “block” climbing on granite rocks. 
Then walk around to horseshoe bay,  have beer at pub.
Go to yha afternoon for parrot feeding .  can camp on beach – go north .

Walk back same way or get bus back to picnic bay.   Some snorkeling near xbase backpackers also.  The Bay south of xbase can access by foot – from road, small track. Very nice bay can camp.


South molle and magnetic are gems.

Just south of Townsville,   alligator creek nat park camp.
Very nice rock pools to swim.  Walk up stream by rock hoping or use track to right. If you are keen, walk to big waterfall is 16km .  can camp there . 


South of Townsville

 Airlie Beach.  

Tres joli  archipel d’iles. 
Les Bahamas en Australie


Après… après mackay, a Proserpine, take turnoff to airlie beach.
Good free camping at cedar falls (turnoff on right before airlie) but remote and hard to get to on foot.
Near airlie, can camp in national park (on road to shute harbour with tent.)  very good beach campsites. Also great walk (long 27km but I did it in 1 day) from airlie thru rainforest and down to road.  Can hitch back to airlie.

Get all info for walks, islands etc at national park info center, just at exit of Airlie on way to shute harbour.
They have a pamphlet with map of Whitsundays and all walks and campsites on islands.

Very good views of islands from shute harbour.  Can talk to yachties in marina there or airlie for crew member etc. they take backpackers for races also.
Can camp on top parking – pay parking fee of 7$ and stay discrete.




From shute harbour, walk back a bit to nat  park and camp (mosquitoes).



Best island and cheap to get to and stay:
South Molle island
 


Use nat park brochure to do walks. 
Has epic sunsets, a real Robinson Crusoe feel .  There are 2 national park camps.  Sandy bay has best views. 

click HERE for my blog entry on this.



Some of the best walks in Queensland.  Short (2hrs return ) .
Lots of big butterflies.

Sandy bay:
Coral just off the camp, on both sides.  Also near jetty next to resort.
You can walk to the backpackers resort – they have parties you can join in, drink beer etc. 

Walk along beach then up into forest to get to resort,  This is also the start of the walks.  Some walks start behind the resort. 

Use Scamper water taxi.  Drop off and pick up for 65$.  Leaves from shute harbour
They can hire you jerrican 20l. and more camping gear. 
Tent with mossie net useful for sandflies.  Bring jumper , raincoat.
Snorkel gear. 

If there is significant rain, Try to arrive a few days after rain , as rain makes water visibility not so  good.
Go to campsite on spit between 2 islands. Toilet, picnic table, a few other campers. 
From there,  coral on both sides (swim out a bit).  Coral around jetty at resort.

Excellent coral in gap between 2 islands.. need to walk north of camp  at low tide. Go around on left, past rocks. Come to coral beach, snorkel.  Use current and drift . 


Can fill water at resort: buy a drink at the bar ( after 5) and ask them to fill your bottles. Can walk to resort along track (17min).
Do all walks to summits especially the one to spion kopje near the resort.  Butterflies etc.

Stay at least 2 nights. soak up sunsets, and get good weather.
At low tide, can walk north to mid molle island, then cross it via forest or rocks (no track…)  .  really good coral in passage between mid-molle island and North molle island .  (ferries go thru here).   Can use tidal current – get in on one side and let it drag you to other side, while being underwater.



 ==================================


Rainbow beach

Very pretty beach

Carlo’s sandblow  -  short walk from parking next to rainbow beach.
Huge sand dune. 
Walk down to edge and look North to see good view of Rainbow beach.

Camping at Inskip peninsula – nat park
Need 4wd to get thru sand on many sites.  Also lots of sandflies. 



Noosa

Not to be missed. Excellent surf.  Great walk along edge of national park past tea tree bay etc.  Dolphins sometimes. 


Glass house mountains

Between noosa and brisbane.  Amazing volcanic mountains .  Good short hikes.  Eg around tibrogargan. Some rock climbing with bolts there as well.

Can free camp tibrogargan at parking . Can do steep hike up to summit. Not in wet weather.

Easy hike: to top of ngungun . Near glasshouse town ( get map of mountains there) .  Great sunset as in picture above. 
=========================================


South of Brisbane  


Myall lakes 

Very nice camping on peaceful huge lakes. 


Nice campsite -  on huge lake


Blue Mountains


Near Sydney.  World heritage at 1000m altitude. 

Kattomba is 1.5 hrs from sydney cbd.. great walks . Avatar - like scenery and waterfalls.

Go to wentworth falls, do the balcony walk which is midway down cliff ( one at base is not as scenic) . Via ladders etc.  Come back up in valley of waters - multiple falls.

Also amazing fall - bridal veil fall at govett' s leap: go to blackheath. Then down to national parks office and lookout.
Can walk to base of fall.

Nearby ( turnoff between blackheathand kattomba )  go to evans lookout.  Can free camp here.   Excellent hike " grand canyon" go down steeply thru gulleys and tree ferns.
Turn right at bottom. Keep going until the canyon gets real narrow.




Grampians NP, Victoria 





3.5 hours NW of Melbourne.

Halls gap is a little gem, with high peaks, great walks in small canyon, lots of great granite for rockclimbing or scrambling.  Lots of rock pools on the track from halls gap up the valley to sundial carpark.  Then go up "grand canyon" walk .



1 hour North:
Mt Arapiles World famous small monolith for rock climbing (trad mainly). 


more on my blog:

click here